Surfing

And suddenly, out there where a big smoker lifts skyward, rising like a sea-god from out of the welter of spume and churning white, on the giddy, toppling, overhanging and downfalling, precarious crest appears the dark head of a man. Swiftly he rises through the rushing white. His black shoulders, his chest, his loins, his limbs--all is abruptly projected on one's vision. Where but the moment before was only the wide desolation and invincible roar, is now a man, erect, full-statured, not struggling frantically in that wild movement, not buried and crushed and buffeted by those mighty monsters, but standing above them all, calm and superb, poised on the giddy summit, his feet buried in the churning foam, the salt smoke rising to his knees, and all the rest of him in the free air and flashing sunlight, and he is flying through the air, flying forward, flying fast as the surge on which he stands. He is a Mercury--a brown Mercury. His heels are winged, and in them is the swiftness of the sea. In truth, from out of the sea he has leaped upon the back of the sea, and he is riding the sea that roars and bellows and cannot shake him from its back. But no frantic outreaching and balancing is his. He is impassive, motionless as a statue carved suddenly by some miracle out of the sea's depth from which he rose. And straight on toward shore he flies on his winged heels and the white crest of the breaker. There is a wild burst of foam, a long tumultuous rushing sound as the breaker falls futile and spent on the beach at your feet; and there, at your feet steps calmly ashore a Kanaka, burnt, golden and brown by the tropic sun. Several minutes ago he was a speck a quarter of a mile away. He has "bitted the bull-mouthed breaker" and ridden it in, and the pride in the feat shows in the carriage of his magnificent body as he glances for a moment carelessly at you who sit in the shade of the shore. He is a Kanaka--and more, he is a man, a member of the kingly species that has mastered matter and the brutes and lorded it over creation.

(Jack London, The cruise of the Snark)

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Zeekoorts

Ik moet weer op zee gaan, een goed schip en in 't verschiet
Een ster om op aan te sturen, anders verlang ik niet.
Het rukken van 't wiel, 't gekraak van het hout, het zeil ertegen,
Als de dag aanbreekt over grauwe zee, door een mist van regen.

Want de roep van de rollende branding, brekende op de kust,
Dreunt diep in het land in mijn oren en laat mij nergens rust,
't Is stil hier, 'k verlang een stormdag, met witte jagende wolken
En hoogopspattend schuim en meeuwen om kronk'lende kolken.

Ik ben een gedoemde zwerver, waar moet ik anders heen?
Maar gelaten door de wind gaan, weg uit de stad van steen.
Geen vrouw, geen haard verwacht mij. Ik blijf ook liever zonder.
'k Heb genoeg aan een pijp op wacht en een glas in 't vooronder.

J. Slauerhoff

(op de foto de achttienjarige Jack Schultz, die in 1949 de Andes beklom, in een eigenhandig uitgehakte kano de Amazone afzakte, deze tot zeilboot ombouwde en naar Florida voer. Het schip heette: Sea Fever.)

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